Some journeys take us to new places. Others bring us closer to ourselves. Taking part in the Za Križen procession on the island of Hvar was not just a trip – it was a profoundly spiritual experience that stays with you forever.
We departed from Zagreb as part of an organised group, enjoying a comfortable ride and a warm Mediterranean welcome in Split as our first stop. After a stroll, coffee, and a guided tour through the city with our guide Neno, we boarded a ferry to Stari Grad and continued to Jelsa – a place that would become our spiritual home for the days ahead.
Barban Mass: An evening of silence and spirit
We could sense how special this journey would be from the first evening. We attended the Barban Holy Mass – mystical, powerful, and deeply moving. The church was whole, people stood wherever they could, and the atmosphere was filled with silence and devotion. What touched us most was Jelsa’s honest authenticity and the way it lovingly preserves its centuries-old heritage.
Discovering Hvar: A day of stories
The following day was dedicated to exploring the island’s beauty. One group toured the historical town of Hvar, while the other spent the day in the picturesque village of Pitve. We visited the Winegrowing Collection, tasted local wines, and listened to stories about their origin, history, and significance to island life. The day was light and joyful, yet a quiet anticipation lingered – the moment we had all come for was approaching.
A night of tradition, faith and devotion
At exactly 10 PM, the Za Križen procession began. Six processions from six parishes set out simultaneously, each with its route and cross-bearer, but all with the same purpose. At the head of each group, the cross-bearer carried a cross draped in a black veil, followed by hundreds of worshippers in silence and prayer. The night was calm, the flicker of candles and lanterns gently lighting our path, while the traditional chants of kantaduri echoed through the darkness and deep into our hearts.
Even the rain couldn’t stop us. We walked all 25 kilometres in peace, gratitude, and belonging. This is not just a religious event – it’s a walk through time, through the faith and history of the people who have made this island sacred. The cross returned to Jelsa at dawn – around 6 AM – and the moment was powerful, emotional, and nearly indescribable. People wept, prayed, and stood in silence. A profound sense of unity filled the air – something rare and beautiful. After some rest and breakfast, we spent the last hours soaking in the sun, sipping coffee, and sharing our impressions. Jelsa bid us farewell with warmth and light. The ride back to Zagreb was quiet, filled with gratitude. Our spiritual guide accompanied us the whole way – supportive, knowledgeable, and kind.
Taking part in Za Križen is not just a journey. It is a deep, transformative experience – a reminder of the strength of community, the importance of tradition, and the beauty of faith. Please take a look at other Stay with Martha programs on our website: https://staywithmartha.com/
